Welcome to “Where Shall I Live?”, your neighborhood guide to the many Portland neighborhoods.
First stop: Buckman.
The Buckman neighborhood was one of the first eastside neighborhoods to develop over the turn of the 19th century. Wandering up from the waterfront, you’ll see many old buildings that have since been converted to apartments, condos and businesses. Buckman is home to some of the best bars and restaurants in the city and has such a wide variety of house styles to oogle over. EVERYTHING is within walking distance if this is the neighborhood you choose to live in.
HISTORY
In 1870, with the arrival of the railroad, the east side of Portland became the City of East Portland. The Buckman neighborhood was one of the more popular options to live as it was close to many factories along the river, and convenient to downtown, which was just a ferry ride away until the Morrison Bridge was built in 1887. Many of the buildings were tenement or boarding houses to house the many immigrants, workers, and new transplants to the area. Then after the opening of the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition, the boom began, and single-family houses were all the rage. Wandering through the neighborhood now, you’ll see the turn of the century “Painted Lady” Victorians, to the popular porch-gable houses, Foursquares, Cottages, and Bungalows, peppered in between rows of duplexes, courtyard apartments and rowhouses. One common occurrence you’ll see are the “Buckman Threes”, where smaller local developers built three houses in a row, all in similar if not identical fashion.
Fun tidbits:
Our beloved Hawthorne Blvd was once named Asylum Avenue due to the massive asylum built in 1862 for the mentally ill, headed by Dr. Hawthorne himself. The Lone Fir Cemetery, now his final resting place, is home to many of the original Portland names of the city. You’ll see many a street name on those tombstones. This neighborhood is steeped in history.
Two popular figures lived in the Buckman neighborhood at one point in their lives, none other than young Walt Disney, and renowned chef James Beard.
FOOD
The list is long, so here are a few of my favs. You could eat at a new place every single day, and it’ll take you about a ½ a year or more to get through them all.
Whether you’re vegan or not, don’t miss out on Mama Dut. Vegan Vietnamese food is SO good, and you might want to get there right when they open before the lines begin and they sell out of the Pork belly Ban Mi, (no pork involved!). There’s a variety of sandwiches, bowls, and drinks, oh my!
You can find them over at 1414 SE Morrison St.
For that special night out, a happy hour jaunt, or if you’d just like some infused vodka shots matched to your dishes, this is the place for you. They’re “presenting dishes from the former Soviet Union through a Pacific Northwest lens”. With the fabulous décor, the exceptional service, and the delicious food, this is a date night to remember and repeat. The caviar toast on happy hour is DIVINE!!
Look no further than 960 SE 11th Ave.
Once the location of THE Asylum ran by none other than Dr. Hawthorne himself in the late 1800’s, this food cart pod now has over 20 carts, a firepit in its center, and a spooky iron gate keeping you in to enjoy all the varieties of food choices.
On the corner of SE 10th and SE Madison St.
DRINKS
It’s a fun and spooky time all year round. Considered “Purveyors of fine American Schlock & Cocktails”, this is a bar that will surround you with interesting, not at all disturbing décor, while offering you many beer and cocktail choices. They also have a Smashburger that’s pretty yummy you won’t want to miss out. You may miss it passing by so keep your eyes peeled for a spooky good time.
Creep out on 627 SE Morrison St.
If you know you know. There isn’t a sign, just a red light in a stairwell hidden within another bar/restaurant. Go down those stairs to be swept into the past with French music playing, leather booths, low lights, and a cool factor you can’t find anywhere else. Craft cocktails are the star here. Surprise your date, take them to the best speakeasy in Southeast. It’s all about who you know to find this one, and now you know me, so let’s go!
Good luck finding this one at 710 SE 6th Ave.
Go for the earl grey milk tea, stay for the most darling treats with faces that are hard to take bites out of, but so worth it! From the bear or kitty faced cheesecakes, to the strawberry “croffles”, (a sweet combination of a croissant and waffle), and rainbow cake, everything is delightfully tasty with such a Kawaii vibe to keep you smiling. They also have a little gift shop in the back so if you’re in need of some fun gift ideas, I wouldn’t miss this shop!
Treats galore at 2250 E Burnside St.
With a pinball room, THE best bathroom décor, and a rotating collection of tap beers – it’s your Cheers-like neighborhood bar if you’re a neighbor or not. Warm and woodsy inside, and covered tables outside to people watch as you peruse and partake in the long list of beer choices. Come drink with me!
Drink up over at 1410 SE Stark St.
NATURE
The second largest arboretum in the city with hundreds of trees, this cemetery was named after the once solitary fir tree that grew here, (it’s still standing with a plaque to commemorate this namesake tree). It’s also the final resting place of some of our oldest residents. This cemetery is lovely any time of the year. You’re enveloped amongst the many tree varieties, (many over 100 years old), and surrounded by the resident wildlife of squirrels, racoons, and birds. I’ve seen many folks with their binoculars wandering through, as many avian varieties call this park/cemetery home. The Friends of Lone Fir even offer headstone cleaning classes periodically throughout the year, and an annual Halloween night ‘Tour of the Untimely Departed’. Sign up early, as this sells out fast!
Colonel Summers Park/Community Garden
Created in 1921 originally as Belmont Park, this park is beloved by the residents around the neighborhood. There are basketball courts, a baseball diamond, tennis courts, a playground, and many trees to lie under their shade. They offer movie nights in the park during the summer and is a great place to get together for an outdoor party. The community garden in its SE corner offers some delightful flowers and veggies to admire from the street. If you’re lucky enough to get onto the waiting list, you could have your very own plot to grow!
Tree-lined streets!!
If you’d prefer to wander the tree-lined streets and gaze at the variety of architecture in the neighborhood, you’re not alone. You can even go on a walking tour with the Architectural Heritage Center, that will give you the history of the area while talking about the different architectural styles of homes within Buckman, and many other neighborhoods of Portland. It comes highly recommended!
There is SO MUCH more that the Buckman neighborhood has to offer. If you’re curious or would like more food, drink, nature, and real estate suggestions let me know! I hope this has helped answer your question on “where shall I live” in Portland? If not, stay tuned for the next post of “Where Shall I Live?”, the St. Johns neighborhood.
Let’s explore the neighborhoods together!